A Walk along the Wall
Seoul's city wall, known as Hanyangdoseong, once encircled the capital city Hanseong (also Hanyang) and protected its inhabitants. In the more than 600 years since its initial construction, a lot has happened to both the wall and the city. Although it may not stand as tall and strong as it did during the Joseon era, and it no longer protects the people within its embrace, it remains a prominent feature amidst the modern high-rises today.
Snaking its way through downtown Seoul, crossing hills and dividing districts, the wall stands, a witness to Seoul's turbulent past. Despite suffering damage and destruction itself, it continues to watch over the city's everyday life.
Join me on this walk to discover that the city wall is not just a historical relic but a living, modern-day essential of this city. Here, people walk to keep their body and mind in shape, couples go on dates, and the latest coffee trends sit alongside a wall that dates back centuries. While walking ask yourself this: What might the kings of Joseon have thought of this fusion of history and modernity?
The word sunseong (순성) dates back to the beginning of the Joseon dynasty and refers to soldiers patrolling the city wall for defense and maintenance purposes. In the later Joseon period, sunseong also came to describe scholars who traveled from across the country to Hanyang (as Seoul was then known) to walk along the wall and pray for success in their civil service examinations. Over time, even visitors who walked the length of the wall simply to enjoy the surrounding scenery, came to be known as participants in sunseong.
The tradition fell by the wayside (or in this case, wall-side) in the wake of Korea’s liberation from Japanese colonial rule and the devastation of the Korean War. The separation of the two Korea’s even led to parts of the city wall being closed to civilians for national security reasons. Particularly the stretch on the northern side from Inwang mountain (인왕산) to Bugak mountain (북악산). However, the tradition was later revived and continues today, with many people seeking out the wall and surrounding parks for hiking, walking, or simply to enjoy the seasonal colours and spectacular views of the city. Many still believe that ‘walking the wall’ will bring success in exams, a flourishing business, or other forms of personal achievement.
Join the sunseong tradition and follow in the footstep of both ancient Korean scholars and modern-day Seoulites for a stroll along the wall and let me tell you a story or two of its importance to the city.
Our journey starts at the eastern main gate, Dongdaemun, as we make our way up Naksan, one of Seoul’s four central mountains. Don’t be discouraged though, Naksan is the lowest and the easiest accessible by foot of the four. Yet it still offers great views all around once we approach the peak. After stuffing our phones and cameras with photographs, we’ll descend on the other side to Hyehwamun, one of the four smaller gates of the city wall.
The walk between the two gates, across Naksan, can be completed in a one-hour tour (it’s approximately 2 kilometers). A two-hour tour offers even more, as it includes a visit to the grounds of Sungkyunkwan University, the oldest university in East-Asia. But the experience reaches its (literal) peak in a four-hour tour, which extends from Hyehwamun to the Malbawi Observatory and finishes at Sungkyunkwan University and surrounding Daehak-ro, a trendy theater district.
It's somewhat surprising that the view over the city from Malbawi Observatory remains so little known, considering how spectacular it is.
Itinerary
I’ll share a more detailed, initial suggestion for an itinerary through email upon your booking/information request.
Other Practical Information
Any relevant practical information (e.g. meeting point, contact details, transportation instruction) will be shared upon booking.
Frequently Asked Questions
Please wear comfortable walking shoes, and weather-appropriate clothing. Seoul experiences (very) hot and humid summer months and (very) cold winter months. To minimise our environmental impact, bring a refillable water bottle and, of course, a camera to capture memories.
First and foremost, I will ensure pace and route to suit your preferences. The last thing you want on a travel journey is to rush, miss things or end up exhausted. That said, the city, the climate, circumstances may be challenging. Yes, I accommodate to every fitness level, but no, not all tours are suitable to everyone. You find more information regarding fitness level on the detailed tour pages.
Simply fill out the contact form, and I will promptly respond via email.
Costs vary based on tour length and group size. Pricing details will be provided in the initial email correspondence.
Tours can be conducted fluently in English and Dutch. My proficiency in Korean ensures a seamless experience and facilitates all communication throughout the tour.
Tours range from 1 hour to a full day experience. Duration is customised in close consultation with the customer, to ensure individual needs are met. To avoid unnecessary rushing, I recommend a minimum of 2 hours.
No, transportation is not included. I am happy to provide guidance on public transportation options, or for a small additional fee, am happy to meet you at an alternative location and accompany you on public transportation.
For convenience and simplicity all tours begin and end at one of Seoul’s metro stations, unless otherwise agreed upon via prior email communication. The meeting point is typically at street level of one of the numbered exits of the metro station.
No, food and drinks are not included. However, we can easily stop at a convenience store during the tour for drinks and snacks. I'm also happy to recommend nearby restaurants or cafes for meals afterwards, and if time allows and the request arises, I'm open to joining you for a bite.
Crafting your Seoul walking experience
This here is but a small, one-person operation driven by a desire to help others experience the joy of exploring Seoul on foot. I realise that not everyone knows what to ask for in a new city, and therefore I’ve crafted a few tours around some successfully tested themes and areas. However, I do value the idea of tailored and personalised individual experiences. Whether you're looking for a leisurely stroll through a bustling neighborhood or an immersive day-long adventure through (the foot of) Seoul’s mountains, this flexibility ensures that your tour will be uniquely yours, and so will be your memories. Drop me a message, and let's design a walking tour of Seoul that's perfect for you.